How much is it?

   In a previous post I seem to have discussed many of the considerations that go into pricing our piercing services, but apparently old blog posts have caused confusion about the current information. So let me just state right here and now, as of February 2015 these are our current prices for any regular staff or normal visiting guest piercers:

   All standard piercing services are $50 for the service fee. This fee includes up to three piercings on the same individual during the same visit. Standard piercings are anything that do not fall into the categories of genital or surface piercings. So all navel, nipple, ear cartilage, ear lobe, eyebrow, lip and tongue piercings have a $50 fee per 3 on the same person per visit. Mix and match how you like. This price does not include jewelry because every client has a different idea of what they would like to wear for jewelry. Jewelry prices differ depending on amount of labor involved in manufacturing, type of material involved and design considerations. We will discuss jewelry prices later in this post.

   Advanced piercings, which include male and female genitalia as well as all surface piercings, have a service fee of $100 for up to 3 piercings on the same client in the same visit. Jewelry is not included in the service fee. If a client chooses to get one advanced piercing and two standard piercings, the fee would still be $100 for the service but all three services would be covered by that price. So a genital piercing and two nipple piercings would be $100 plus jewelry, whereas a cartilage piercing and two nipple piercings would be $50 plus jewelry.

   Jewelry ranges greatly in cost. One of the biggest considerations to take into account when pricing jewelry, is whether the item is actually body safe or not. When determining if something is safe for the body, we require that material meet some sort of standard. Our basic standard for jewelry used in most initial piercings are the ASTM F136 and F67 standards for titanium meant to be implanted into the human body. This is the same standard used for medical implant devices, reconstructed structural body parts, etc. Implant grade titanium is nickel free and therefore fewer people have sensitivities to it than some other metals. The most common metal used by cheaper studios is "surgical steel" which is more of a misnomer as the term "surgical" doesn't really apply to anything. These grades of steel come in a wide variety with a lot of variation in allowable impurities in the alloy. They also have a relatively high nickel content, usually between 15 to 17%. Since nickel is a pretty well known sensitizer, there is no question that these cheaper and often imported steel products are more likely to have consumers that develop sensitivities and allergies to the jewelry itself. Often this is marked by discoloration of the piercing area, swelling and tightness, a mild burning, weeping and other signs that can often be confused for infection. WE WILL NOT PIERCE YOU WITH THIS JEWELRY. PERIOD. As stated previously, MOST studios around the world use this junkier quality jewelry. Many people do not notice the irritations they have developed are caused by the jewelry quality, but instead convince themselves they have an infection or have somehow messed up their piercing. In many cases a change to good quality jewelry can help with several of the symptoms they are facing.

   Another consideration for jewelry is the quality of workmanship. Many piercers can't even tell the difference because they simply have not received adequate training. But once you know what to look for, the differences are clear. Internal threading leaves smooth edges without any exposed screws that might tear and rip healing tissue. The exposed threads on the cheaper externally threaded jewelry also leave deeper cracks and crevices for germs to hide in, which can cause infections. Internally threaded jewelry is a bit more labor intensive so it is not super common to see lower quality companies making it, although there are a couple out there. Externally threaded jewelry is so bad that it is practically unheard of to find a reputable good quality company making jewelry with that system. The finish of the jewelry should also be incredibly smooth under magnification and shiny almost like a mirror. Cheaper and lower quality jewelry is often gray in appearance and has gouges or scratches on the surface, sometimes these scratches can even be seen with the naked eye. In order to get the right type of threading and the right quality of finish to help guarantee a healthy and happy piercing, quality jewelry manufacturers have to invest a lot more time and money in specialized machinery, highly trained and skilled employees, and effective quality control. Most of these companies are based in the United States, carrying first world wages for their employees. Most of the cheaper jewelry companies, while they may have headquarters in the US, have manufacturing facilities in Asia where the regulations are a bit more lax and the average wage for employees is significantly lower.

   The material and the labor are the two considerations that effect pricing of jewelry the most. Keep those considerations in mind every time you view a piece of body jewelry for sale. Eventually you will start to notice that the cheaper pieces actually look more poorly made. Gray in color, scratchy appearance, glued in gems with lead based foil lining, and sharp exposed external threads where bacteria can survive even some sterile loads. When you think about it, it's no wonder that cheap jewelry can be such a detrimental component in a new piercing. If you cannot afford good jewelry and good services, wait until you can. It is not uncommon for people who bargain shop to end up paying three or four times the cost of a good piercing studio by the time they are done battling all the complications they get from cheaper studios. Many of those times they don't even end up with the piercing, just scars. Even if the piercer or studio has internet cred, or television fame if they use poor quality jewelry run far away.

Quality jewelry on the left, cheap novelty pieces on the right.
Courtesy of the Association of Professional Piercers (safepiercing.org).

   Now that we've discussed the considerations, let's talk about some average jewelry costs. At our studio, all implant grade internally threaded or threadless straight barbells in 18 gauge, 14 gauge and 12 gauge thicknesses are $35 each. $10 per titanium ball and $15 for the shaft in the middle. A single gem stone on one end is typically about $15 to $25 more per gem. That means a lip piercing with a gem on the front will usually run $50 for the service, plus $50 or $60 for the jewelry, plus 9% tax on the jewelry. The State of California only makes us charge tax on jewelry, not services. So let's look at some examples...

• Monique wants to get her Rook (an ear cartilage placement) and her Tragus (another cartilage placement) and her Tongue pierced. The $50 service fee would cover all three piercings as long as they are done in the same visit. In addition she will need a minimum of $119.90 in jewelry (curved barbells are $5 more than straight barbells. Rooks are done with curved barbells, as are navels and eyebrows.) so her total would be $169.90 with the standard implant grade titanium jewelry. 

• Monique's friends Julia and Christine are coming along as well. Julia wants two standard Lobe Piercings with clear 4mm gems. Christine would  like a Philtrum (cleft of the lip just below the nose) Piercing. Even though they are getting 3 piercings, the piercings are on two different people so the $50 service fee would need to be paid by each person getting pierced. If they chose to get another piercing while here, they would only need to pay for jewelry on that piercing since their service fees cover up to 3 piercings per person, per visit. Since Julia knows she wants 4mm prong set Swarovski Cubic Zirconia for her lobes, we know the jewelry will run $60 plus tax each, plus the $50 service fee. Julia's total will be $180.80 for her ear lobes, which is significantly more than her little sister paid at the mall kiosk with a gun piercing. But Julia has also seen first hand all of the healing complications her sister has faced and believes it is worth the price to get better quality in a hope to avoid those issues. Julia's sister can't even wear most of her earrings without her ears getting inflamed, and most of Julia's friends who got pierced with disposable needles and implant grade titanium have never had any issues like that.

• Now Christine isn't sure what jewelry she wants to start with. She knows her Philtrum would heal great with just a small standard ball on the end and the $35 jewelry price is not daunting. But she also knows it may be a while before she can change to other jewelry and she kind of wants something with a little more pizzazz and shine. She is considering either a 3mm Synthetic Black Opal Cabochon in a Bezel setting, or a 3mm Mint Green Swarovski Zirconia in a Prong Setting. The Cabochon and barbell will cost $55 plus tax whereas the Prong and barbell will cost $60 plus tax. She knows that Anomaly offers FREE NO OBLIGATION consultations, and will decide on the final piece once she sees them held up next to her skin tone. She also knows that a final total for what she wants will be given to her prior to obtaining the piercing, and if she decides it is too expensive she knows the staff at Anomaly will gladly give her all the acceptable and safe options that are within her budget.

• In our final example, Maria would like to get her Septum, Industrial and Tongue pierced. These are three piercings, so Maria is sure her service fee will only be $50. Unfortunately for Maria, the Industrial is actually two ear cartilage piercings connected by one single piece of jewelry. If she chooses to get all of these piercings at once, she will actually be getting 4 piercings and will have to pay an additional $50 service fee for the fourth piercing. If she chooses to wait to get the Septum or Tongue until another visit, the other piercings would all be covered in the initial $50 service fee. Jewelry for Septums can range from $25 for implant grade titanium retainers or hoops, all the way up to several hundred dollars for fancy hinged clickers or cluster segment rings. Maria also knows that while her tongue will only cost $35 for the jewelry, she will need to downsize to a shorter bar within a few weeks of getting pierced so she doesn't damage her teeth or mouth. Many piercings are often pierced with longer jewelry to accommodate swelling during the initial healing, if those long pieces of jewelry are left in weeks later when there is no more chance of swelling they can often cause severe healing problems. Maria is elated to learn that her barbell for her Tongue is three pieces and the shorter bar will only cost her $15 plus tax when it is time to downsize. The piercer also suggests waiting to get fancy ends until she downsizes, that way she can adjust to having the piercing for several weeks and then upgrade to shiny ends when she downsizes the bar. She likes this idea a lot, and it was the same thing she did when she got her nipples pierced at Anomaly which are now beautifully healed.

   Quality body jewelry is in high demand these days with only a small handful of manufacturers trying to meet the need. Our inventory fluctuates and if for some reason we do not have the piece that fits your body in stock we will always give you the option to have it ordered or help you find another studio that stocks acceptable jewelry which may have it on hand. Please realize that we are often trying to estimate our needs approximately 12 weeks in advance, as that is the amount of time many of the great manufacturers need to fill orders these days. Sometimes we run out of certain jewelry before the next shipment comes in. That is no reflection of our feelings about you, or your importance to us as a customer. We apologize if this has happened to you in the past but we have a firm stance to only stock the best jewelry from the best brands, even if it means taking months to get it in stock. Thank you for understanding. If you have any questions about specific pricing please feel free to email us at anomalyart@gmail.com or schedule a free consultation to go over all your options in person. As always thank you for taking the time to read this and I hope it clears up any confusion past blog entries have created.

Wado (Thank You),
-Brett Perkins

Stay Gold, Ponyboy: A Discussion Of Gold Use In Body Jewelry

White Gold "Snowflower" from BVLA

   Not a day goes by that I don't hear at least one new client complain about not being able to wear any metal earrings that are not composed of gold. In most of these cases we can link the sensitivities the client experiences back to a gun piercing, most likely during infant or toddler years. And while it is important to note that this is not an uncommon occurrence with gun piercings (or self contained piercing implements like you might see at retail stores and in mall kiosks), in many cases wearing a metal alloy that meets implantation standards solves the problem without the cost associated with gold jewelry. My niece Chloe, for example, has a similar sensitivity and we have combated it by switching her earrings to titanium jewelry that meets the ASTM F-136 implantation standard for alloyed titanium. In other words the metal alloy her earrings are made of meet the same standard as a titanium medical implant device. Furthermore, any nickel content is negligible. In fact the most recent mill certificate I read from the supplier of the jewelry she wears said there is 7/1000ths of a single percent of nickel present. In other words it is virtually nonexistent. That is important to note because nickel is a huge sensitizer for most people, and is most likely attributable for the sensitivities and allergies in many of the clients who can only wear gold. One interesting report said that children who had their ears pierced after obtaining orthodontic procedures like braces have a lower chance of developing these sensitivities. The theory is that while the piercing experience is the same blunt force tearing through the tissue with a spring loaded mechanism, and the jewelry may contain the same impurities, the child has a slower, less invasive chance to adapt to the impurities through their oral contact with braces. In almost every case I have seen personally, when pierced with disposable needles and implant grade materials, no known sensitivities were developed. This alone is reason enough to pay a little more and bring your kids to a reputable piercing studio instead of the lower cost kiosks and retailers. What parent would knowingly risk their child's health and comfort?

Tri-Tone Gold
"Desiree" Septum Ring
by BVLA

   But for those who have already been damaged, re-piercing or even trying implant grade materials may scare them. Many of these clients would prefer to stick with what they know already works, Gold. Many other clients might simply be drawn to the value, the shine, or the coloring of Gold. All of these features are excellent reason to consider Gold body jewelry. In fact for the average person, Platinum will be the most bio-compatible and least problematic material. However for most of us it is a bit cost prohibitive and so we look next at Gold. Gold jewelry is also an alloy much like the titanium mentioned earlier. An alloy is a mixture of two or more metals, usually with the hopes of retaining certain positive properties and losing other negative ones. In the past I have told clients how the term "surgical steel" does not mean their jewelry is body safe. There is a steel alloy that meets an ASTM implantation standard, but not all steel meets that standard. Not even all surgical steel meets that standard. Surgical steel instead usually implies that it is a steel alloy that does not corrode easily. This is important for surgical tools because they are often sterilized under a steam pressure process, and many are also exposed to harsh chemicals known for causing corrosion. In order to achieve this low corrosion steel, certain metals are added in precise measurements that will change the properties of the whole alloy to achieve the desired effects. It is very much like cooking or baking, except you're doing it with metals. A slight change in ingredient amount could turn a cake into a cookie, or cornbread into hush puppies if you happen to be from the South like me. Like the difference between a variety of gravies and sauces, for example, despite them all starting from a roux.

Yellow Gold Set Heart Shaped Gems by BVLA

   Most of the metals we use for initial jewelry are in fact alloys. Just like the Gold pendants and rings you've encountered throughout life. Wedding bands, engagement rings, class rings, etc. Alloys give Gold certain desirable traits like coloring, strength, workable melting points, and the like. So when we are purchasing Gold jewelry it is important to pay attention to the purity of the alloy as this will let us know if there is enough Gold present to meet our needs. For body jewelry we stay in the 14 karat to 18 karat range. Too much gold and the jewelry becomes soft and easily scratched and marked up. Too little gold and we are more at risk of potential reactions to the other metals in the alloy.

Black Rhodium Plated White Gold Crown
Set White Opal by BVLA

   A 14 karat Gold piece of jewelry is 58.33% - 62.50% Gold by mass (however not by volume, depending on metals in the alloy, the volume of gold might be even lower if it is more dense than other metals used). Similarly, an 18 karat Gold piece of jewelry is 75.00% - 79.16% Gold by mass. Which means the rest of the composition in each case has to be made of "other metals". Logic would dictate that 18 karat Gold is more expensive than 14 karat, as it has a higher percentage of the precious metal. However we don't often realize that even 75% Gold leaves quite a lot of room for other metals that could be impurities or cause reactions. 25% by mass in this stated scenario, that's an entire 1/4 of the finished piece. In many cases the Gold is alloyed with Copper and Silver in various amounts to make it malleable or to change the coloring. White gold is very commonly alloyed with nickel, and since we already talked about how sensitive the human body can be to Nickel, it is only common sense to avoid this jewelry. Instead look for white gold that is specifically alloyed with Palladium. It may cost a little bit more, but it reduces the risk of unwanted reactions to the jewelry. If a piece of White Gold jewelry does not state that it is Palladium based, do not assume it to be so unless you have a guarantee from the manufacturer. This is but one of the many reasons we order jewelry from the best manufacturers on the planet. Lifetime guarantees regarding their craftsmanship, and no question about the content of their alloys. 

Rose Gold "Lightspeed" by BVLA

   Keep in mind that Gold alloys are a very proprietary mixture and many manufacturers do not divulge the exact ingredients or amounts of their alloys. This can make purchasing gold body jewelry a much more risky purchase unless the consumer is familiar with quality brands, or retailers refuse to carry lower quality manufacturers. At Anomaly we order most of our Gold or Platinum jewelry from Body Vision Los Angeles, NeoMetal, Anatometal, Scylla, or we make it in house. There are few exceptions to this rule because we have no interest in putting our clients at risk with Gold jewelry we can not vouch for. NeoMetal does make some White Gold pieces that are alloyed with Nickel instead of Palladium, but their catalog easily points them out so that we can steer clear of them in unhealed piercings. Anatometal only makes jewelry in 18 karat because they feel 14 karat leaves too much room for added "other" metals and potential impurities, like us they only want to offer the best of the best. As stated previously 14 karat and 18 karat both should be fine for initial piercings provided they come from a reputable company with a understanding of body piercings. Most of the companies mentioned have former body piercers on their staff so that the intended use of the jewelry is in line with the design and material criteria. 

Rose Gold "Rose" Setting
with Ocean Blue Diamonds
and White Opal Center
by BVLA

   Far too many times than I would like to admit have I seen clients attempt to save a few bucks by purchasing gold jewelry online or from a traditional jeweler. In the end of most of them were unable to wear the pieces purchased. In some instances the materials were not adequate for our needs. In most cases the design is simply unrealistic for a body piercing. Poor angles, rough finish, and even karat stamping on the wearing surface are all reasons to avoid buying jewelry from a website or from a traditional jeweler. A piercer is trained to help you get the safest piece that can meet your needs. Find a local piercer that you trust, who understands all of the issues we have addressed in this blog, and allow them to assist you in your purchases and orders. We love seeing the smile on your face when you are happy, it's part of our job to help get you to that point. 

   Now that you know some of the considerations for purchasing gold jewelry, you can go out into the world as an educated consumer and make your dreams come true without the fear of being taken advantage of. The season for giving gifts is upon us as I write this blog, and I can't help but smile to think of all the great Gold and fine gem stone jewelry that my clients have on order for the special people in their lives. There really is something wonderful about the way Gold accents our lives, our character, our piercings. And the best part of all is that over the long term, the value of the Gold tends to increase dramatically. That's not something that can be said about Steel or Titanium, not even the implant grade versions. Gold body jewelry is becoming such a sought after accessory, that we can even get you an appraisal for your insurance company if you would like to insure your jewelry like any other fine piece you own. I've known clients to save money for months, make payment arrangements, and even use some of their profits from selling their house to get the most fitting and beautiful Gold body jewelry they can design. I have never once heard a single person complain, instead they rejoice when that custom piece finally arrives. Which is perhaps one last benefit of Gold jewelry; the ability to customize, change or create something completely new exists with Gold jewelry. Most Titanium and Steel pieces have to be machined in bulk to be worth their cost, doing a custom one-off design is pretty cost prohibitive for such inexpensive materials. Gold can be worked by hand by fine craftsmen on a piece by piece basis, and typically just increases in value as the years roll by. So it doesn't matter if you want it to have a yellow tone, a rose tone or a silvery one. There is a Gold out there with your name on it, and maybe even some custom stone settings as well.

I hope this post has been informative and fun, if you have any questions feel free to email me at anomalyart@gmail.com.

Wado (Thank You),
-Brett Perkins

On the Current State of an Outbreak: Ebola.

   Whenever I pierce someone, we have a discussion regarding the care they will need to take for proper healing. One of the bullet points we regularly discuss is the avoidance of contact with other people's body fluids. Sometimes when this topic comes up, I'll get some weird looks of disgust from my clients and I realize they are only thinking of the obvious. You wouldn't want to let someone's blood, tears, sexual fluids or saliva have contact with your fresh piercing. But one of the things we often don't think about is sweat. I would tell my clients "while it isn't likely you will catch a disease from someone else's sweat, the differences in pH alone may irritate your piercing or disturb the healing in progress." For this reason we try to avoid sharing pillow cases, telephones and headphones when there are fresh piercings on our ears for instance. Today though there are more serious implications to consider with sweat and other body fluids. It's in the news, all over the television and internet. I would be hard pressed to find a single American who is not aware that we are currently facing a new potential threat from a couple of viruses we formerly thought couldn't touch us. A disease that is spread by contact with body fluids. Including, but not limited to, sweat. A disease we call Ebola.

   According to the CDC, Ebola is the biggest threat to health care workers and their families, and air travel workers. That's because until recently Ebola outbreaks had been pretty well restricted to a few countries in Africa. Most of the people who had interactions with those infected were usually their caretakers, medical personnel. When someone who is infected tries to travel (usually because they don't realize the severity of their illness and believe they just have a cold or flu), travel personnel become the next most likely to become infected as they are the ones in the most contact. I can recall from my own experience traveling about a year ago. I had started exhibiting flu like symptoms the night before, after waiting in an Emergency Room while my niece was treated for some bug that we probably jokingly told her at the time was Ebola. Up until recently I'm not even 100% sure that I knew Ebola was a real thing and not a fictitious virus made up by Hollywood for movie purposes. The next morning I had an early flight home to Los Angeles, and although my symptoms had increased to extremely uncomfortable levels I knew I had to be back home. I could not simply stay away because I had a fever and felt fatigued and needed to be close to a restroom at most times. I got on the flight, and for the first time in my life used one of those little wax lined bags they keep in the seat pocket. I never vomit. Ever. So you can imagine my dismay and slight confusion. My first instinct was to ring the bell for the flight attendant, while I sat there in shock and embarrassment hoping to God I had contained the smell and spared the strangers in the surrounding seats. I felt clammy, I was extremely tired and uncomfortable, there was turbulence (which probably helped hide my illness and just made me seem like I had motion sickness), I wanted to be 10 years old and have someone wait on me and tell me I'd get better soon. I didn't know what the attendant would do, but I thought maybe she could at least give me a napkin or a wet wipe. I didn't blame her for just instructing me to go to the bathroom. It wasn't her mess to clean up, I wasn't her child. But now in the light of this Ebola outbreak, I realize just how incredibly smart that was for her not to get close or touch anything near me. I'm sure they are taught this in flight attendant school. Surely it is part of their Standard Practices for executing their job duties. Unfortunately, nobody knows what I touched or did once I was in the restroom. Nobody knew I was a body piercer that typically has a handwashing ritual in every place he goes that he has very little direct contact with any public surfaces. I could have been the average Joe and spread trace amounts of my sickness all over the restroom in microscopic proportions, unwittingly infecting the next few people that use the same restroom until we landed and *hopefully* a crew disinfected the restrooms. I'm not even sure how frequently airplane restrooms get disinfected. It was a simpler time only a year ago.

   Two imported cases have brought Ebola to the United States - one of which being fatal already - where two more reported cases have been locally acquired. There has been a lot of opinion and speculation on the current state of preparedness in the US, and the potential likelihood of a mass outbreak happening here. We all want someone to blame when we no longer feel safe. We have lived such a life of privilege and luxury as contemporary humans in a modern society, we tend to think it preposterous that we should be responsible for our own part in our survival and well being. And we tend to relax a lot on the rules established for the good of humanity. This can be proven very easily in the case of Ebola in America. While health care workers point blame at hospitals for not supplying correct precautionary equipment to treat Ebola patients, the Occupational Safety and Health Administration released a newly updated Fact Sheet on Ebola. This fact sheet is designed to helped limit occupational exposure to the viruses that cause Ebola. The problem is, NONE OF THIS INFORMATION IS NEW. Let me clarify, none of this information is new information for reputable body piercing establishments. All of the precautionary practices and equipment recommended should already be in place at your local body art facility, or else you should immediately STOP GOING THERE. And this has been standard operation since before Ebola was on our radar. Maybe not before the outbreaks of the 1970s in West Africa, but definitely since the beginning of Anomaly's history over 10 years ago. Let's take a closer look at some of the OSHA recommendations to see what I mean...

• Immediately clean and disinfect any visible surface contamination from blood, urine, feces, vomit, or other body fluids that may contain Ebola virus. One of the good habits of asepsis is making sure that contamination is taken care of immediately. Long before Ebola was a concern, Anomaly instated practices that specifically do this very thing.
•  After disinfecting and removing bulk material, clean and decontaminate the surface using [a suitable] disinfectant. Anomaly has been concerned with limiting any potential spread of infectious matter since our inception, not just Ebola, and for that reason we have always employed the best disinfectants on the market. We choose to use the ones that are least damaging to our environment whenever effective. Products like SciCan Optim 33TB which has a very short one minute contact time for effectiveness against non-enveloped viruses. Possibly the shortest contact time for effectiveness available. 
• Ensure adequate ventilation in areas where workers are using disinfectants, including by opening windows and doors, or using mechanical ventilation equipment. Anomaly incorporates the use of UV air filters and cleansers in our procedure room.
• Use appropriate protective equipment: Nitrile gloves, fluid impermeable gowns, goggles or face shields, and face masks that cover the nose and mouth. Anomaly has always used liquid proof aprons and sleeves, full facemasks including eye shields, and the best Nitrile exam gloves on the market for cleaning and disinfecting in our studio. To take it one step further, almost exactly one year ago we incorporated a "fully disposable" business model that does not disinfect or reuse any critical implements or tools. Meaning even though we have a functioning autoclave sterilizer, we still do not reuse tools or items from one client to another like most studios.
• Avoid cleaning techniques, such as using pressurized air or water sprays, that may result in the generation of bio-aerosols (aerosolized droplets containing infectious particles that can be inhaled). Anomaly uses disinfectant wipes that are impregnated with Optim 33TB for most of our hard surface disinfecting. The contact time for this product to be effective is astonishingly only one minute, beating many other products by about ten full minutes yet still remaining safer for the environment. Since we use products only in wipe form or waterpick style spray bottles, the hazards of bio-aerosols are practically eliminated. Products in spray bottles that mist like glass cleaners, for example, or hard sprayers, can kick up particles of potentially harmful materials that are then spread around to surfaces thought to be clean, or inhaled into the body. Our studio also does not reprocess tools, so equipment like ultrasonic cleaners that create additional bio-aerosols, are not employed in our studio.
• It may be necessary to dispose of contaminated objects with porous surfaces that cannot be disinfected. As mentioned previously, our studio operates on a disposable implement basis. We keep critical tool and equipment usage to a minimum, and dispose of used objects like clamps, pliers or tapers, never allowing them to come in contact with more than one client. In terms of Ebola, this means clients as well as employees are spared potential infection from used tools. Reprocessing tools can be a big risk for employees of studios and must be done in a very specific order with very specific materials. We are proud to have eliminated that risk, making our work environment a little safer for our employees and our clients. Even if it does cost more to function this way. 
• Employers must ensure that they comply with OSHA’s Bloodborne Pathogens standard, 29 CFR 1910.1030, to protect workers who may be exposed to blood or other potentially infectious materials. The Bloodborne Pathogen standard mentioned here is the EXACT same standard that body art facilities are required to follow in order to operate in the State of California. This standard is established to help protect employees from contracting any number of potentially harmful diseases from body fluids. It is refreshing to know the same standard is fully effective for Ebola, but once again we have been following this for the last decade since our studio opened. EVEN BEFORE IT WAS A STATE LAW. And as required by law, we update our training annually.

   So you may be asking yourself, "If the guidelines to keep me safe from Ebola are guidelines body art facilities should be following, why are people getting infected?" And honestly that is a great question to ask. I don't think I can answer it completely as many factors exist, but I would surely care to venture a guess or two. First off, I think the biggest culprit we have to blame is human nature. Without admitting publicly to anyone else, how many times have you slacked off out of complacency or boredom with the same routine at work? How many times have you accidentally made a mistake simply because you weren't paying attention? How many times because you were under the gun to produce something quickly and the overload of stress inevitably left something overlooked?

   It happens to us all at some point in our lives. For many of us, that means an incorrect number on a spread sheet or an extra character typed in a line of code, or forgetting to tie the trash can liner tight so that heavy items don't suck the bag inside. But if your "every day" is in a health care setting, the smallest mistake at the wrong time could lead to serious complications. We read stories of surgeons accidentally leaving tools inside patients, operating on the wrong side of the body, or using skin preps the patient has an extreme allergy to. None of these things were done out of malice, in fact quite the opposite. Out of the desire to help save and heal someone. Yet "accidents will happen" Elvis Costello says. And even beyond the simple fact that we all make mistakes as flawed humans, consider also how many thankless hours medical professionals spend at work and on call. It's truly an inspiration that anyone chooses to do it for a lifetime. But imagine also if mistakes were made during the training of said individuals. What if certain practices meant to keep them safe were not expressly pointed out to be as important as they are. Surely a nurse or doctor or other worker wouldn't even realize that some break in their aseptic technique - from a lack in understanding just how important that one thing is - is the weakest link in a chain of protection from what could be the next big outbreak. Imagine if an error in accounting at the hospital did not budget enough for the protective equipment needed to handle serious issues. That doesn't stop potentially infected people from requiring treatment. Imagine what an error or a typo in supply orders could do. I've seen piercers and nurses who don't even wash their hands effectively. It's not that they want to get sick or spread illnesses. It's usually that they either don't know better or they have become so complacent relying on the rest of their protective equipment and fancy sterilizer to do the work and make them seem "clean", they forget that HANDWASHING IS THE FIRST STEP in breaking the chain of infection. The first line of defense in protection.

   Speaking of piercers, one of my oldest and dearest friends recently asked me how I make sure my employees follow practices and protocols like those outlined in this blog. In other words, what sets my studio apart from the many others as well as the many clinics and health care settings where illnesses are often contracted instead of stopped (remember the story I told about getting sick on the airplane? I contracted my stomach bug from a hospital Emergency Room, sitting in the waiting room the whole time). My friend's question really made me think. Why am I not as concerned about my health in my studio? Why do clinical settings worry me more? And a few ideas hit me almost immediately. First, I know the cleaning regimen for my studio and the protocols and products used. Most of the time I am the person doing the cleaning, at least in the critical areas like procedure rooms for sure. Secondly, I oversee the training of my employees when it comes to these procedures, and I don't skimp on getting the best product for the task. Third, our studio handles minimally invasive procedures people are electing to get of their own free will. Meaning the clients are in good health, and we have no limit on the amount of time needed to do the procedure correctly and to minimize potential contamination. We don't do anything that is life saving (although some people may feel emotionally at times that it has been life changing), we do not ever have a true emergency. We are not rushed to resuscitate a client or to stop a fountain of severed artery. We are merely piercers and that affords us the ability to slow down and do things with precision every time. Fourth, we don't create much waste. We use the least amount of materials needed for a single piercing, we do not reuse any critical items, and we rarely see very much residual bleeding or other body fluids present during our procedures. I'd hate to jinx myself, but it's been years since a client has vomited from excitement or nervousness. Years. Lastly though, and this is the biggest one, I don't hire anyone who doesn't have the drive to be the absolute best piercer possible. I don't settle for piercers who are too lazy to do things right. Anomaly has a tradition of piercers who want to continually learn and grow and strive to be the best. This mentality keeps our piercers fresh and hungry to do things right every time. It also keeps us constantly re-evaluating how we are doing things and evolving our procedures and approaches. We don't need to be threatened by the negative media scare of Ebola, we have the positive desire stay on the forefront of our industry and to keep all of our employees and clients safe and healthy. And all of this at an extremely competitive price when you take into account our much higher cost of doing business the right way. But I have always said my clients are a part of my life, I believe they all deserve the best. Thank you once again for your time and your thoughts. I truly appreciate all the feedback I get from these blog entries. As always you may reach me at anomalyart@gmail.com if you have any further questions or suggestions.

Wado (Thank You),
-Brett Perkins

An ounce of prevention is WORTH a pound of cure.

   It's been almost a year since we introduced our current schedule at ANOMALY of bundling up to three piercing services for one single price. In that time we have seen a very unexpected side effect arise: the emergence of price shoppers. Now don't get me wrong all of us want to make sure we are paying a fair price for the things we acquire in life, and none of us want to feel ripped off. Some of us even go so far to get the best deal that we exhaust more time and energy in seeking out the bargain than the actual value of what was saved. As the old adage goes, time is money. I know my life is pretty busy and every moment I spend needs to have some reward for me to justify it. In some cases that reward is intrinsic: be it the joy I feel seeing my friend's daughter perform in her first high school color guard half time show; or the recharge I get from getting away for a weekend into nature and letting my mind and body fully relax. In both of those situations I don't get a financial reward, but the time is still well spent and I am rewarded fully in another sense. If I spend all day on the telephone trying to price match phone service providers just so I can save $5 per month, however, then I personally feel like my time has been wasted. Especially considering I could have likely put in a little effort working that day and made profit well enough to cover paying that extra $5 per month for a very long time. Sometimes though, the enticement of a deal makes us very willing to go out of our way to "earn" said deal.

   When potential new clients call to ask solely about price, we often have a hard time communicating with them. Obviously we want to answer their questions, but price alone does not account for the entirety of our service here. The simple fact is we will almost always be the most expensive place in town. Hands down. But there are reasons for that, and it's pretty hard to communicate those reasons to someone in less than ten seconds. It's even harder to communicate them effectively without sounding rude or snobby. Many years ago we started embracing the term "jewelry snob" because if being a snob means you won't settle for unsafe materials at exorbitant rip off pricing then we are definitely snobs. We even had little buttons printed up with photos of jewelry made by Body Vision Los Angeles, one of our favorite local jewelers who also happen to be the cream of the crop the world over. If we seem snobbish when it comes to quality, it's because we know that the alternative really is garbage. But nobody likes to be known as snooty. None of us want to be thought of as rude, especially when the truth of the matter is all of our extra demands are designed to benefit the end user. Our clients are the ones who end up with better quality everything, and a cleaner and more comfortable experience. Meanwhile we actually make LESS PROFIT in order to bring these things to them. None of us are getting rich here at ANOMALY. Far from it. We do this for a living because we love it, and because we love it we refuse to cut corners or do it less than best. Unfortunately that means we pay more to be able to do things in a certain manner, we'll just call it "the right way." The more it costs us to operate, the more we have to charge our clients. When our operating expenses came down last October by relocating into a smaller space we passed on the savings to our clients by bundling up to three piercings for the same service cost. For the average client getting three piercings, this saves them between $100 to $200. That's a pretty substantial savings, far more than they would ever save even if they had gone to one of those novelty piercing studios that use substandard jewelry.

   We realize though that it is hard from a consumer perspective to understand our pricing, if you are not a piercer you may think they are just random numbers pulled out of thin air. Let me take a moment to explain what all is involved in the average piercing. The first of which is a service fee. Service fees are currently $50 for up to three standard piercings on the same person in the same visit. Advanced piercings like genitals or surface piercings are $100 for the service fee for up to three. These prices do not include the jewelry, but we will get to that another time. The service fee itself includes everything the piercer will need to perform the piercing installation. Including, but not limited to:

1. Gauze - We use the best non-woven synthetic gauze we can get our hands on. Woven cotton gauze can sometimes be a bit rough and abrasive to the tissue, plus cotton fibers can come loose from the weaving and unintentionally get inside the healing piercing causing irritation and prolonged healing, not to mention unsightly growths or bumps around the area. We pay for the best gauze, which is also usually the most expensive gauze. There are no loose fibers to come unwoven because the product is not woven in the first place. The synthetic tissues are silky smooth and do not disrupt the area they are being use on or cause excessive trauma, and they are highly absorbent.
2. Skin Prep - You may have seen those studios that use that big bottle of chemical to clean you with, much like gun piercing kiosks at the mall. The problem with pop-top bottles of chemicals is that the product itself can easily become contaminated by air contact, leading to certain bacteria or fungi growing inside the actual chemical that should be preparing the area for a clean piercing. These bacteria and fungal spores often travel through the air on tiny dust particles too small for the naked eye to see, if they find a home in a dark moist environment like the inside of a product bottle, they can reproduce rather quickly often rendering the product itself completely ineffective. There have been documented cases of this happening in the past at studios and especially at mall ear piercing kiosks. In order to reduce any potential of this happening in our studio, ANOMALY employs the use of individually wrapped disposable swab sticks that are saturated during packaging with just enough of the skin prep chemical necessary for a procedure. Once the prep has been applied, we dispose of the applicator and use a completely new prepackaged single-use item for the next client. We also only use FDA approved medical grade skin preparations. Instead of being fooled by companies targeting the trend of body piercing and packaging hand soaps with the implication that they are skin preps, we stick to the tried and true methods that have been clinically tested for uses similar to ours. If you could imagine every time you took a shower, your body wash and shampoo and conditioner were all from a brand new container with just enough for a single use surely you would expect the cost to be pretty prohibitive. In fact most hotels recycle and repackage the tiny little shampoo bottles that are graciously supplied to each room. It's much more economical to buy large bulk products, but unfortunately for things like piercings which involve open wounds, it is not always the safest option. Our skin preps cost significantly more than the corner-cutting methods that are potentially dangerous.
3. Gloves - Everybody knows that gloves help cut down the spread of infectious organisms. Once upon a time food workers and tattoo artists, and even doctors rarely used disposable gloves if ever at all. Nowadays we see them employed at most businesses not only for the customer's benefit but also for the employee's. At ANOMALY we use a very specific brand and model of Nitrile gloves. Nitrile is a latex free alternative that provides great effectiveness in protecting the wearer. We don't want to run the risk of harming a client of ours who may have a latex sensitivity, we also don't want to increase the possibility of our employees obtaining similar sensitivities by constantly using latex. But more than just using latex free gloves, we use a very specific brand of glove because of their consistent performance and unparalleled quality assurance. We expect our gloves to come out of the box easily reducing the chance of contamination if removed inappropriately. We expect our gloves to have a certain thickness and pliability to allow the wearer to function as a piercer without compromising their safety. We want gloves that can withstand the pressures we may put them under in stressful situations so that our clients are never at risk of the glove breaking or tearing for no reason. Beyond all of this, we use pre-sterilized gloves for the actual moment the skin is punctured. There are some studies that suggest sterile gloves reduce the risk of infection even further, and one article recently even cited a case of bacterial outbreak on non-sterile gloves. Most studios use non-sterile exam gloves for everything they do because it is cost effective. We also use non-sterile exam gloves, but for non-critical purposes like house cleaning. When it actually comes to piercing, our gloves come wrapped and sterile in pairs just like they would for surgery. This is significantly more costly than the non-sterile bulk box of the same type of glove.
4. Tools - ANOMALY is a completely single-use only studio that disposes of tools as they are used. We try our hardest to minimize the amount of tools needed so that we have the smallest possible impact on the environment while still offering you the safest service. The truth of the matter is reused tools have a greater potential for contamination than brand new single use tools. Even if they are adequately processed and sterilized, used tools still run into an albeit small potential for something surviving the sterile cycle. Often your chances of something going wrong with the sterilization are one in a trillion or more, but it is still a chance that is greater if those tools have been in contact with potentially infectious body fluids. If the tool has not had contact with any fluids, even a failure in sterilization will not be nearly as serious of a potential infection risk. Using disposable tools adds a significant cost to the overhead of each piercing we perform. For jewelry changes we sometimes try to estimate these costs and add them in advance, for piercing services the fee is always the same to help offset the cost even though it rarely covers it completely.
5. Needles - Most other studios use needles that are made cheaply here in the US or imported from China in bulk, intended usually for the medical or veterinary industry. The metals the needles are made from often have thin walls that makes the needles easy to bend and easier to lose their sharp edges. They needles also have a different angle on the bevel that don't allow them to be as gentle to the tissue as the needles we use. We import our needles from Japan where they are made with the same pride and care as centuries of the finest swords and knife blades. The angle of the bevels have been calculated precisely to be the most advantageous for body piercing making a clean and smooth piercing procedure with as little trauma to the area as possible. in addition to that the needles are lined with a silicone coating so they can glide swiftly through the piercing area with little resistance and relatively little discomfort. The needles we use cost ten to twelve times more per needle than the ones used by most piercing studios.
6. Marking Implements - Most other studios use toothpicks and a product called Gentian Violet to make the marks on skin before conducting the piercing. The toothpicks are single use and disposable, but the slightly larger container of Gentian Violet is not. There are some cases where harmful bacteria have grown inside older bottles after continued air exposure, very similar to the skin prep we discussed earlier. At ANOMALY we use single use applicators that are pre-inked in a matrix, all we have to do is apply moisture to the matrix and we have a viable marking method. This gives the marking implements a much longer shelf life without the likelihood of contamination. Again, like the skin prep this method does incur a higher cost.
7. Sterilization - It is not only common practice, but also law in California that every body art facility have the ability to sterilize their supplies. Most studios use a type of large chamber steam sterilizer called an autoclave. the problem is many of those autoclaves are meant for laboratory use, sterilizing items that are neither porous, hollow or liquid. Tattoo tubes, piercing needles, receiving tubes and some parts of jewelry are all hollow. This means that many of those Type N gravity displacement sterilizers are not being used in a manner consistent with their intended use. There's a much higher probability of something surviving a sterile cycle or unintended results by using items sterilized against manufacturer suggestions. Once again ANOMALY employs standards above and beyond by using a Statim sterilizer. These are special active air removal autoclaves used in dental and surgical applications because of their reliability, their ability to sterilize hollow items, their incredible speed from a cold start to sterility, and because they are extremely gentle on delicate items. Sterilization is important, even in an all disposable studio because germs exist everywhere. All of our brand new jewelry and tools still need to be sterilized to make sure any potential exposure with possibly harmful germs is no longer an issue, if we used an inappropriate method then rates of infection are much more likely to increase. This special autoclave that we use does come with a cost that is sometimes more than five times the cost of the autoclaves used in other facilities. And that's not including the maintenance costs. In the rare occasions where we can use jewelry purchased outside of our studio, we still charge an additional sterilization fee to help offset the cost of operating and maintaining this wonderful piece of equipment. Jewelry purchased through us does not incur an extra fee.
8. Monitoring - In order to make sure our sterilization equipment is working accurately, ANOMALY uses both chemical and biological monitoring. Chemical Integrators are used to show that each cycle has reached the correct temperature, amount of steam pressure, and has stayed there for the correct amount of time to reach the criteria to kill germs. Biological monitoring, also known as spore testing, uses an active harmless spore to test the validity of the equipment being used. A third party laboratory incubates the control spores as well as spores that have been run through the autoclave. If there is growth in the control group and no growth in the autoclaved group, then it reasons that the equipment is working correctly. State legislation requires biological monitoring every month, but ANOMALY has been doing it long before it was a state regulation. In fact we do our biological monitoring weekly. State regulations require a Class V Integrator to be used for each sterilizer batch run, but ANOMALY has been using these same chemical monitors ever since we opened our doors. In fact we use one per client, not just one per batch. A more aggressive monitoring program gives us reassurance our equipment is operating properly, and it would allow us a much quicker alert if there were an issue. This monitoring program also costs us more than the average studio, as we are using the monitors much more frequently.
9. Continuing Education - ANOMALY employs only the highest trained piercers because we want our clients to have the best possible experience and easiest possible healing. Our piercers attend continuing education seminars that are geared toward their line of work. Every year we close for a week to attend the Association of Professional Piercers international educational conference, in addition to other seminars and intensive courses, OSHA approved Bloodborne Pathogens training, and First Aid and CPR training. In an effort to help our piercers always strive to be the best, the studio has incentives for its employees to always continue their education. Many other studios don't offer the same because they are less interested in investing back in their employees and more interested in profiting financially.
10. Piercer's Wage - Just as you would not expect a chef at a restaurant, or a hair stylist at a salon to work for free; we do not expect our piercers to do so either. ANOMALY piercers love what they do for a living and love the industry, this shows by their dedication and amount of extra hours off the clock spent in continued training and being involved in ethically minded industry groups. The truth is piercing is not always an easy occupation from which one may make a decent living wage. The ability for the piercer to pay their own rent and bills, support their families, and pursue a life that involves things other than just catering to clients all the time is directly related to the amount of piercings they do and the amount of tips they make (which in turn is related to how good they are at their job, one hand washes the other). Most piercers appreciate being a part of the experience in others' lives that they make do with what they can financially. The simple truth of the matter is, there are not a ton of piercers who have been at it over fifteen years that don't eventually either find new careers that have more stable pay or else end up owning their own studio. There are some, but there are far more who give up on piercing instead. Piercing clients get pierced for a variety of reasons. For some it is a way of taking control of their body, reclaiming themselves and their independence. For some it is a way to celebrate the passing of time or to mark important events. For some it is a cathartic physical process. For some it can be a tribute or memorial to a passed loved one. In all these cases there is an exchange of energy that can sometimes be taxing or draining for the practitioner. Most of us feed off of this exchange and appreciate not only the honor of participating in the process, but take seriously the responsibility we have to make this process the best we possibly can. For the best of us it is not "just a piercing"; this is a lifestyle. This is a time consuming, all encompassing condition that is inherently a part of our very human existence. We gladly partake in all it entails, but it should not come without the compensation of being able to pay our own way in the world. 

   These are just some of the considerations that are taken into account when deciding our service fee. In some instances clients who may feel they are too good to pay fair pricing for services will sometimes search out the cheapest option in town. They may think to themselves that a piercing is a simple matter of poking a hole and putting jewelry in. They severely undervalue the amount of time, energy and money a reputable piercing studio invests in order to correctly achieve the piercing. To the naked eye the cheaper option may seem the exact same, but to the trained eye the jewelry is harmful, the procedure cuts many corners, and often the visual aesthetic is simply just not the same quality. Sometimes these same clients wind up with sensitivities, infections, jewelry that falls apart, and even visits to their doctor. While circumstances that can effect these unfortunate outcomes are possible no matter where someone gets pierced, reputable studios like ANOMALY go to such great lengths to minimize the possibility of this happening that it makes a huge difference. So going back to the point I mentioned earlier about perceived saving not always being as great as actual savings, I often find myself wishing I had a tactful way to mention all of the horror stories and costly fixes I've seen my clients have to endure from some other studios on a regular basis. Perhaps if I could just say in under ten seconds to someone calling around about pricing that $50 plus jewelry is far less expensive than a trip to the emergency room in the middle of the night because your improperly pierced lip is inflamed beyond the craziest image of a collagen injection gone wrong, perhaps then they would understand that we are in the business of trying to do things right and not trying to just milk a couple of extra bucks out of them. Perhaps if I could relay how incredibly expensive several laser sessions can be to try to reduce the skin discoloration caused by the impurities in a cheap quality piece of jewelry, then the person on the phone might realize that a few extra dollars now for quality is well worth it. Perhaps if I could somehow relate how incredibly irritating and costly it can be for most of the price shoppers who get pierced at the cheapest guy in town and then STILL END UP HAVING TO PAY TO GET REPIERCED BY US LATER, without any refund or compensation from the other studio that jacked them up... perhaps then I could spare many people from terrible experiences. I hear about them every day from new clients who have come to us to avoid paying someone else and still ending up dissatisfied. If only I had a concise and tactful way of illustrating all of this instead of writing a lengthy blog post about it. But alas I do not, and so I answer price questions and allow people to respond rudely to me as they hang up the phone. Maybe it's true that some of us do just need to learn things the hard way. Regardless, one truth still remains: no matter how much someone thinks they may not be able to afford the pricing of our piercings; I guarantee you we cannot afford to properly offer it for less.

As always I thank you for your time and consideration when reading my words. I hope that someone out there appreciates what I have to write as much as I appreciate having the outlet for it. If you have any questions about safe body piercings, please feel free to write me at anomalyart@gmail.com and I will do my best to respond in a timely manner.

Wado (Thank You),
-Brett Perkins

Small Miracles: Some dreams are just not worth the risk.

   The piercing world is abuzz right now about a photo that surfaced regarding some questionable piercings done for a reality TV series. I won't bother mentioning who the piercer was that originally did the piercings (although I'm sure you can figure it out from the screen shot below taken of a Twitter post earlier today). What I would like to do instead, as I'm sure many of the feeds that do pick up on this story will bash the practitioner unmercifully (and in my opinion it is pretty well deserved), is point out some of the considerations that should take place before a project like this is ever executed as well as discuss the ethical and moral quandaries behind performing such projects. I truly believe we can learn a lot from this scenario and it should be highlighted and used to help educate the unsuspecting consumers and future clients out there. Otherwise more people may end up scarred and victimized by piercers who do not have the moral fiber or the knowledge to adequately consult with their clients about the likely outcome of projects like this.

   Let's start in the beginning. What exactly are you looking at in this photo? The top portion was a digital flyer of sorts made to advertise the piercer that performed 71 single point surface piercings. These piercings are done with a special type of jewelry called "surface anchors", however some factions of the general population use the term "dermals" in a slang fashion to describe both the jewelry and the piercing procedure. Dermal technically is a reference to skin. So the nickname for these piercings that has been adopted by some is actually like saying "skins," which of course is a bit redundant because all piercings are placed into or through skin. Semantics aside, most reputable piercers actually refer to these piercings as surface anchors (the jewelry) or Single Point Piercings (the piercing procedure used to install said jewelry). Anomaly was one of the first studios in the Los Angeles area to receive surface anchors as prototypes approximately nine or so years ago. The jewelry was one of the newest and biggest innovations in body piercing and helped spark a refreshing revitalization of interest in the body piercing industry. So we have quite a lot of experience with this jewelry and know quite a bit about the limits of what should be expected from them.

    Initially we all believed and hoped these types of piercings would be permanent. Something that would add new placement possibilities where previous surface piercings had been deemed not viable. We hoped it was a piece of jewelry that could stay secure in its placement while the outside appearance could be changed without full removal. We noticed very fast and comfortable "healing" times initially for many clients, and were pleased by the extreme ease of installation. With a little time we also started realizing that removal was much easier and less invasive than originally thought. In fact in most instances a little wiggle and a tug and a competent piercer can often pop these piercings right out if the client desires. What we hoped would be a permanent placement though we quickly learned to start considering "long term, temporary". In other words, while the piercings seemed to heal quickly with relatively little complication, the base is not as sturdy under the tissue as a traditional surface piercing with connected entrance and separate exit. Any trauma to the area and these little buggers often have a hard time recovering. In some instances they can be manipulated into place and with the addition of pressure from an occlusive dressing, may in time right themselves. But the average client usually sees removal necessary between 3 to 5 years after being pierced. In other words, while some clients have had these piercings for 9 years or so, some only get a couple of years lifespan out of them. Many factors can determine the overall time a client gets to enjoy their piercing, one of the biggest is the client's habits or hobbies. If the client is involved in activities that may include excessive movement in the area of the piercing, or objects potentially traumatizing that area, the piercing is much less likely to last as long as possible. If the shape of the anatomy where the piercing will be placed has a curvature to its surface, the jewelry is more likely to get bumped or snagged or traumatized and need removal sooner than later also. If the area of the piercing is receiving a mass amount of trauma, like 71 piercings at once for example, it is highly unlikely all of those piercings will last long enough for the client to get much enjoyment from them. In time, the vast majority of these piercings must have the jewelry removed if it has not grown out completely on its own. For this reason we consider them to be long-term, temporary piercings. We tell our clients this during our consultation and we warn them that acquiring one of these piercings will likely leave a visible scar. In many instances a single one will leave a tiny scar that is easily concealed, many of them however will cover a much more broad surface and scatter several scars in a pattern that is harder to conceal. I believe the "after" photo above illustrates this well. This is all common knowledge to reputable piercers now, and it is our obligation to empower our clients before they get pierced with this knowledge so they may make the decision for themselves armed with the ability to weigh potential consequences.

   Another factor that plays heavily in this scenario is jewelry quality. Many surface anchors are made overseas by less than reputable companies with substandard materials or surface finish. It is imperative that a client hoping to get a decent lifespan out of a temporary piercing make sure their piercer uses only the best. At Anomaly we swear by the implant grade titanium surface anchors made by Anatometal. Some other reputable companies that make adequate surface anchors include Industrial Strength and Intrinsic Precision. Most reputable studios around the world use surface anchors from these three manufacturers. There may be a couple of others I have forgotten to include, but the vast majority of safe surface anchors are supplied by these three companies the whole world over. Yet the vast majority of piercers (disregarding the small group of ethical ones who refuse to use substandard jewelry) use jewelry manufactured by companies that specialize in substandard metal alloys and cheap novelty jewelry. Some of these substandard designs and material compositions have impurities that the client may develop sensitivities to. Some of them have inadequate designs that are thicker bases under the skin or wacky shapes that the body reacts negatively towards. Some of the surface finishes are so rough and textured, you wouldn't wish them on your worst enemy. Yet unsuspecting clients are paying daily to have these installed in their bodies without the ability to know the difference. The first indicator should be price. Good jewelry is never cheap. A project of 71 surface anchors would run several thousand dollars just in jewelry alone. Even if a reality TV production company were footing the bill for the service, the jewelry cost would likely be outside of their budget. That means the client would be expected to pay several thousands of dollars for this project if it were done with adequate jewelry. Knowing the temporary nature of these piercings, and knowing that this many at once will likely lead half or more of them to rejection in little time, a conscientious piercer would refuse to do this project. We all have bills to pay and would love to bring in a sale in the thousands, but agreeing to perform this project is simply negligence. It is a complete lack of care for the outcome and for the scarring and possible other issues the client will endure. An area this large with so many puncture wounds and possibly impure materials contact will leave the client far more prone to infection by potential bacteria, virus or fungus. In a worse case scenario this could land the client in the hospital praying experimental medicine keeps them alive. I hate to sound like an alarmist here, but similar situations have occurred from unethical and improper piercings before. There really is no substitute for paying for quality jewelry and a well trained and reputable piercer (not just a TV personality).

   Now in the photo above we can see from the get-go that the area being pierced (thigh) is a curved plane, not extremely flat. We also know that the area gets lots of movement every time the client walks, sits, or lays down. The skin expands and contracts as the knee bends, pulling the jewelry in different directions as it does. In addition, certain clothing options like skirts and pants will likely rub against the jewelry and in some cases even get caught or snagged. Bed sheets and bath towels may also have a similar effect if the client is not extremely cautious at all times. The finished product looks as if some of the surface anchors are at varying heights, meaning some will be more likely to get snagged and possibly yanked out of the piercing placement. And let us not ignore the fact that the television famous piercer who initially performed these piercings has been known to either intentionally lie or accidentally confuse his social media posts, claiming he uses Anatometal jewelry in photos where he has used substandard jewelry or a combination of Anatometal tops with substandard bases. He has also posted the exact same photo of piercings in the past but claiming the "healed" times in the photos shown were different. One photo might show a piercing he claims is two years healed, then a few weeks later he reposts the exact same photo claiming this time it is three years healed, and so on. Could this just be an honest mistake? Sure. Could it happen to be an intentional lie to give himself more credit than he deserves and to try to capitalize on the seeming credibility his television self demands? Only he knows the truth. I mean, sure it could just be a mistake that he used mystery metal craft supply sprockets to create a "steam punk" project on an unsuspecting client's face in a similar fashion - but the alarming thing with that case as with this is the practitioner's unwavering defense of the mistaken actions and excused justifications. It takes a big man to admit he has made a mistake, not so much can be said about someone who fights tooth and nail to try to convince everyone else he is larger than life and mistake proof.

   Any piercer worth his salt can tell from this first photo that this project would not last long. Even before the claimed "3 months with no rejection" banner was added, hundreds of piercers questioned this practitioner publicly and privately about his rationale and the viability of such a project. He was evasive, elusive, and defensive. He stood firm that he knew better than the countless reputable piercers, many of whom had far more experience with these items and better quality jewelry and tools than he. He tried to gain credibility and composure by posting a banner with the slogan "71 Dermals, three months, no rejections" almost as if to taunt anyone that had expressed initial concerns. The reasonable voices had been labeled "haters." And now not much later, we see the truth that all those piercers tried to warn would happen. Here this poor girl's leg is left with less than half of the original piercings. She has significant scarring. She has likely been through some uncomfortable healing and emotional stress when the first piercings started to be lost. And even if this saint of a piercer offered to repierce the lost ones for free, in several months she would be right back to this same conclusion. In fact it is highly likely over the coming months she will lose more of the piercings that are still hanging on.

   Sure this was a cool concept. Sure the client was probably overjoyed and ecstatic upon the completion of the piercings. But sometimes a piercer has to know when to refuse a project. Personally I would not have been comfortable performing this project on a client. I could express until I was blue in the face how it would likely turn out, but if they still accepted the possible complications I don't think I could do it. Thankfully with photos like these we have some FAIL pics to show clients to help explain what could be in store for them. But a caring and compassionate piercer would try to find some other way to help the client transform their wishes into something viable. A great piercer would try to come up with a less risky idea that had minimal complications to overcome, because in the end we want our clients to be happy with their piercings and not be scarred (literally) for life. I've said many times when counseling younger piercers that they should think of themselves as little more than educated tools, whose purpose is to help the client achieve a desired goal in a safe and clean manner. It makes me chuckle though when some people don't understand I mean the definition of tool as in a device used to carry out a specific function, not the slang definition that is more along the lines of a foolish jerk. I'll let the reader decide which definition of tool the piercer who performed this surface project was trying to embody.

   Always research your piercers. Check their education. Have they taken seminars, classes, or other advanced courses pertaining to their field? Are they members of professional safety and health related trade organizations? Do they have great reviews from past clients? Do they seem not only knowledgeable, but also caring? Are they willing to offer you a no-obligation consultation to discuss everything involved with your potential piercing BEFORE it is performed? Do they openly warn of potential complications that may occur and advise on how to avoid them? Do they seem passionate about what they do? Here at Anomaly we believe in being the best we can and we have been blessed with clients who seem to value the service we offer. We have been voted the Best Of Pasadena for Body Piercing for the past three years (reader submitted votes in the Pasadena Weekly). We have attended the Association of Professional Piercers educational conference every year to further our education and stay abreast of industry changes. We have piercers who are members of the organization as well. We always offer no-obligation FREE consultations for any piercing you may be considering, and we try our best to paint a fair and accurate picture of what healing will be like based on the information we have gained in our decade of existence here in Pasadena, as well as the combined decades worth of experience from all of our piercers. We truly want you to be happy with your healthy and healed piercings, and we know several shops around the world who have piercers that are just as conscientious. We will gladly suggest one for you if you ask. Unfortunately though, the majority of piercing studios out there put profit first and cut corners by ordering substandard jewelry and hiring under-trained piercers who are willing to work for less while they teach themselves by practicing on you. It is imperative to avoid these businesses. After all, your health is more valuable than that.

   For more information on selecting a safe piercer or information about the Association of Professional Piercers, visit safepiercing.org. As always I thank you for your time and patience as I share my thoughts with you, and I welcome any dialog you may have about the matter. Feel free to write me at anomalyart@gmail.com.

Wado (Thank You),
-Brett Perkins

Is Appropriation Appropriate?

   I've debated writing this blog for a while, as I'm sure it will likely spark some intense feelings within some of its readers. The truth of the matter is that while my opinion may vary from some, what makes our modern progressive time so great is that we have the ability to listen and try to understand each other without seeing different opinions as personal attacks. I hope that those who read this blog and don't agree will consider my points with an open ear and open heart just as I have with the blogs that have come before me of differing opinion. I have decided to include this blog on our business website because traditions, rites of passage and rituals of other cultures are the origins for the body adornment procedures we offer as a professional service at Anomaly on a daily basis. The subject of this blog pertains to every single person who has ever purchased a piece of jewelry, received a body piercing, or attended a suspension event. It is with these clients and friends in mind that I feel I can not keep my opinion quiet any longer. It is time to confront the demon of cultural appropriation and really explore our true feelings on the subject.

   It has come to my attention recently that one of the new big catch-phrase causes for young activists is "cultural appropriation". By definition cultural appropriation means one specific cultural group has adopted elements of another culture. It typically has a negative connotation and usually refers to a more dominant group adopting habits, rituals or other elements of a minority group. Some examples I have heard as of late would include “Westerners” using the term “Namaste” which is historically a salutation and valediction originating in the Indian subcontinent. The term has Sanskrit roots and basically means “bowing to you” or in the Hindu belief it refers to one bowing to the Divine presence within another. Modern activists would have us believe that saying this phrase, which is commonly done at the end of many yoga classes for example, is somehow stealing a piece of something belonging to someone else. Another example of cultural appropriation often mentioned and far more relevant to what I do for a living, is the wearing of ancient jewelry and/or the creation of modern jewelry that mimics ancient or ethnic designs. The idea would be that this might seem like a mockery or an insult to the cultures that originated the designs. Perhaps the ancient civilizations - some of whom are no longer around to express any discontent with the way their adornments are being used in modern society - would prefer that significant pieces of their society are kept sacred within their own communities locally. Another big example might be rituals. Many of us in the body modification community have incorporated flesh rituals into our lives. For some they hold a sacred meaning, and for others they hold more of an entertainment value. Regardless it is something we have chosen to do to ourselves, yet most of these rituals - be it flesh suspension or even just ear piercing - were created by communities and societies long before our modern society existed. The argument might be that modern man has no right to these rites. Perhaps without proper guidance from a shaman or elder well versed in those traditions we can never truly recreate the sanctity of the ritual conditions. Perhaps not.

   In this modern time we do want to approach life with a sensitivity and respect for all those we encounter, so I have a high regard for those who find this issue of cultural appropriation a priority in their lives. To me it shows that they want to be conscious of others around them and aware of the impact they have on the world. A very noble gesture. Unfortunately though I feel it is sometimes a little misguided (at least in my opinion). Let’s take for example the use of the term Namaste. Does one have to be born a practicing Hindu for the presence of the Divine to be seen within them or by them within another? Would performing this greeting be malicious or seem offensive to someone from southern Asia? I find it hard to believe either of those would be the case, in fact being a great fan of religious studies I have heard quite a few Hindu speakers express the opposite. I have spoken with friends from India, Indonesia and other parts where the term Namaste is used frequently and when asked if they were offended by Westerners using the term I have only received laughter and a unanimous “no”. In fact several people cited that they felt comforted and welcomed when strangers attempted to understand or communicate with them in their native terms. There may not have been a complete understanding of the origin language or culture but it was a sign of peace and attempted common ground. We will never know what citizens of ancient civilizations would think of our adoption of their jewelry designs, but those cultures still around seem to be welcoming the interest with open arms, and welcoming the business enterprises available because of sudden popularity in certain jewelry styles. Of course the financial market and trade systems are a completely different subject and one that by no means justifies anything in the eyes of a true activist, but barring the destruction of the systems already in place it is still a relevant consideration. Many see the acceptance and desire for different cultural jewelry designs as a means to help end poverty in their villages or communities - to provide the revenue streams for enhancements in quality of life like water filtration and sanitation relief.  As for flesh rituals, there does seem to be concern stemming from the proper “spiritual” guidance during these ceremonies. The concern is not so much one of insult from untrained persons attempting the rituals, but of worry for their safety and desire for the tradition to be honored to its fullest intended meaning. A medicine man for instance would not be concerned with keeping someone from experiencing a sweat lodge ceremony, but he may have sincere worries for the safety and meaning of such a ritual that were performed without the guidance of a trained holy person. It is a tradition and a heritage passed down, and with ritual ceremonies every gesture is symbolic, every tiny detail has a meaning easily misunderstood or overlooked by someone untrained. In all cases though it is important to note nothing is stolen from any specific culture. Stealing by definition means to take something (usually physical property) belonging to someone else without the intent to return it. None of these things were taken, and the adoption of them by another group does not preclude the originating group from possessing them. If a self help guru decides to hold a sweat lodge ceremony of sorts out in the desert, it does not keep a member of an indigenous tribe from still experiencing his people’s holy ceremony. It may seem silly and frivolous to him, and if people are injured or hurt during the newer version there would be a sadness and worry, but it does not affect his sacred act with his people. Nothing was stolen. Ancient jewelry can be physically stolen, but the only person affected is the owner of the specific piece of jewelry. Being inspired by an ancient design to create something more modern does not create a loss for anyone, financially or otherwise. If anything it creates more interest in learning about the culture that the design came from. I feel like I am beating this point into the ground, so I won’t continue any more with it, but instead direct your attention to something just as important… especially for activists to consider.

   Who benefits from the these separatist ideas of keeping aspects of certain cultures purely for members of those cultures? The Romans had a wise judge Lucius Cassius who reportedly was known for using the phrase “cui bono”, or in other words “with benefit to whom?” This phrase insinuates that sometimes the accuser may have a vested interest in the outcome of any decision achieved from the accusation. By thinking about who benefits most from a situation we may sometimes see through the subtle manipulation or disguised performances behind the stage of seemingly blunt query. When I think of who would benefit from keeping cultures separate, from attempting to make a group of predominantly Caucasian individuals feel guilty for expressing interest in things outside of their familial upbringing, I think of racism. Racism is defined as prejudice against a person or group of people based on their race. Race is defined as a group of people sharing the same culture, history, language or other similar common features. Telling members of one race they cannot partake in something that interests them simply because they are not from the race of people that created that thing, is by definition racist. Many modern activists feel the need to write rules for what the “white race” can and cannot enjoy or partake in, usually under the guise of sensitivity towards other races. This goes far beyond acknowledgement of cultural differences and acceptance, it becomes fascist in the generalized use of the term - meaning extreme authoritarian and intolerant views and practice. I don’t use the term lightly. Does this mean I believe these socially conscious activists to be evil or bad? No. In fact I believe many of them are simply too caught up in attempting to be the best versions of themselves they can be, and attempting to lend a voice for those they deem oppressed or voiceless, that they do not realize they might actually be propagating the agenda of those with the very intolerant mindset they hope to abolish. Without even going too far into the generalization that most of these activists are of the white race themselves, and the vast majority in my experience also having come from backgrounds devoid of immersion into the very cultures they claim to speak for, one has to stop and question what gives anyone the right to proclaim themselves a voice of another cultural group. Doesn’t assuming your intentions speak for the good of another people actually do more to undermine the strength and beauty of said people, objectifying them through your benevolence? White supremacists are the ones who win by keeping cultures separate. White supremacists can continue to believe the idea of a purified bloodline if there is no cultural integration. White supremacists can continue to distort the understanding and feelings of their followers if the followers have no interaction with people of different cultures. If you never met someone from another land, you are more willing to take at face value every bad thing you have heard about that land. Meeting people from other cultural groups and enjoying things inherent to those groups makes them seem more human, makes it easier to find commonality, to dispel fear and insecurities of difference. This would be more harmful to the white supremacy movement than any other single act. White supremacists want white people to live the way they believe white people should live. To do the things they believe white people should do. To eat the foods they believe white people should eat. And to avoid anything that falls outside of those lines. This sounds eerily like the anti-cultural appropriation agenda of late. The first indicator you’ll see is that the subject of most of this activism is typically referred to as those of “white privilege”. I don’t claim that there isn’t a level of privilege inherent to most Caucasian males born in our time period. I by no means am trying to revise history to act like there haven’t been and continue to be gross injustices in civil liberties among different gender and racial groups (as well as others). But what you will notice with this emerging agenda is that the rules of what must be avoided or considered culturally insensitive is primarily focused on those of the “white” cultural group. Which means the rules of what is culturally insensitive for black people, Asians, Native Americans and all “other” cultural groups aren’t important. The excuses mentioned for this have ranged from “it is impossible for the oppressed to become the oppressors” and “the intention is different/lack of malice”. The cowardice to create a system of rules for each cultural group leads to singling out one specific group, which once again is simply racist. Separation leads to misunderstanding, fear and potential hatred between groups. And really the whole thing is fueled by assumption. The assumption that cultural groups feel invalidated or disrespected when their traditions are adopted by others. The assumption that this primarily carried out by white privileged males and often for the sake of financial gains. The assumption that a person or group of persons who are radically minded have the best interest of everyone in mind, and the assumption that the same group of people understand all of the complex issues of each cultural group and have the ability to pass judgement on all of their behalves. Not just ability, but also authority. The assumption that separation of cultural traits will maintain some sort of betterment for the groups involved and the assumption that being vehemently opposed to racism will keep one from participating in racist acts themselves. It is clear to me that many of these assumptions are simply not correct. Many of the same people that believe cultural practices should remain unique to the origin cultures are the first to jump in and try to change those cultures because the ideals of sexuality, individualism, gender roles, property law or animal welfare do not conform to the the beliefs of the well-meaning activist. Many people want to have it both ways. So does this mean it’s totally cool to throw on that super revealing “Pocahontas” costume next Halloween? Cool might be going a bit far. But similarly it’s probably not super cool to throw on that super revealing police costume either. The intention of those costumes are where the mockery lies. I am not offended by white privileged males portraying Croatoans on stage in a historical drama, it’s not the fact that someone is dressing as something they aren’t that is offensive. That is simply just the whole concept of dressing up. If you dressed as what you are on Halloween, it would not be a holiday… it would be just another day. The offensiveness is not so much in the appropriation of the culture, but in the lack of understanding or reverence for the culture. The intention is key. And once again looking at someone’s clothing or haircut or jewelry and deciding that you know their motivations is about as ignorant as telling a black man from the UK he is an African American. In fact, I had a girlfriend that I loved dearly (let’s be honest, I still do despite the demise of our relationship) who is a Canadian citizen. Her father’s family is from Jamaica. On a road trip one time we stopped at a road side vendor selling minerals and rocks, and he referred to her as being African American. This started some debate about whether she was actually African American or not. Being that her dad is of Afro-Carribean descent and she was born on the continent of North America the term is most likely valid, but it was still a very weird thing to process as she had never really been referred to in that way before. It was almost dismissive of who she really feels she is and in some ways insulting, yet the person who said it had all the best of intentions. If you trace it back far enough we all originated in Africa (except maybe those of us from outer space), so at what point does the ancestral definition lose meaning? Conversely some of these so-called free thinkers who are pushing this separatist agenda find themselves attempting to justify their feelings based on the assumption that they have a relation to the groups represented. I have heard some say things along the lines of “my father got a DNA test and he had 19% African heritage so that means I have the right to be the voice of African American concerns” or “my great great grandmother came up from Mexico and settled here, and even though I don’t speak Spanish and have never set foot on the land she grew up in, I feel qualified to be the voice of Latin America”. The assumptions are often just as misleading to the person about themselves as they are about the ideals they hold for others.

   In the end I think what is most important to take from this is that cultures have borrowed elements from each other since the dawn of time. Early Christianity borrowed many rites and rituals from the pagans before them. Many civilizations borrowed DNA from the other cultures they encountered through mixed marriages and offspring. Languages have borrowed ideas and roots from other languages. It is the way of intellectual evolution. We add the sum of our parts and increase our knowledge. Wear dreadlocks if you want to, you don’t have to be Rastafarian. Sport that crucifix you think is so beautiful despite being an atheist. I will continue to wear my Maasai mindo ear weights and beaded cuffs despite having never spent a single day in a Maasai village. As long as it is done with reverence and respect for the culture, love for the original meaning or appreciation for the aesthetic, and without malicious intention, then I have the utmost pride in your decision. To respectfully partake in a little cultural appropriation of my own, I leave you with the great Sioux saying "mitakuye oyasin", we are all each others' relations. Instead of finding reasons to separate more, let us nurture our relationships and find beauty in our differences. So much beauty that we want to sing to the heavens and adorn ourselves like an homage to each other. Thank you for your time and consideration of my thoughts, it means the world to me.

Wado (Thank You)
-Brett Perkins