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| White Gold "Snowflower" from BVLA |
Not a day goes by that I don't hear at least one new client complain about not being able to wear any metal earrings that are not composed of gold. In most of these cases we can link the sensitivities the client experiences back to a gun piercing, most likely during infant or toddler years. And while it is important to note that this is not an uncommon occurrence with gun piercings (or self contained piercing implements like you might see at retail stores and in mall kiosks), in many cases wearing a metal alloy that meets implantation standards solves the problem without the cost associated with gold jewelry. My niece Chloe, for example, has a similar sensitivity and we have combated it by switching her earrings to titanium jewelry that meets the ASTM F-136 implantation standard for alloyed titanium. In other words the metal alloy her earrings are made of meet the same standard as a titanium medical implant device. Furthermore, any nickel content is negligible. In fact the most recent mill certificate I read from the supplier of the jewelry she wears said there is 7/1000ths of a single percent of nickel present. In other words it is virtually nonexistent. That is important to note because nickel is a huge sensitizer for most people, and is most likely attributable for the sensitivities and allergies in many of the clients who can only wear gold. One interesting report said that children who had their ears pierced after obtaining orthodontic procedures like braces have a lower chance of developing these sensitivities. The theory is that while the piercing experience is the same blunt force tearing through the tissue with a spring loaded mechanism, and the jewelry may contain the same impurities, the child has a slower, less invasive chance to adapt to the impurities through their oral contact with braces. In almost every case I have seen personally, when pierced with disposable needles and implant grade materials, no known sensitivities were developed. This alone is reason enough to pay a little more and bring your kids to a reputable piercing studio instead of the lower cost kiosks and retailers. What parent would knowingly risk their child's health and comfort?
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| Tri-Tone Gold "Desiree" Septum Ring by BVLA |
But for those who have already been damaged, re-piercing or even trying implant grade materials may scare them. Many of these clients would prefer to stick with what they know already works, Gold. Many other clients might simply be drawn to the value, the shine, or the coloring of Gold. All of these features are excellent reason to consider Gold body jewelry. In fact for the average person, Platinum will be the most bio-compatible and least problematic material. However for most of us it is a bit cost prohibitive and so we look next at Gold. Gold jewelry is also an alloy much like the titanium mentioned earlier. An alloy is a mixture of two or more metals, usually with the hopes of retaining certain positive properties and losing other negative ones. In the past I have told clients how the term "surgical steel" does not mean their jewelry is body safe. There is a steel alloy that meets an ASTM implantation standard, but not all steel meets that standard. Not even all surgical steel meets that standard. Surgical steel instead usually implies that it is a steel alloy that does not corrode easily. This is important for surgical tools because they are often sterilized under a steam pressure process, and many are also exposed to harsh chemicals known for causing corrosion. In order to achieve this low corrosion steel, certain metals are added in precise measurements that will change the properties of the whole alloy to achieve the desired effects. It is very much like cooking or baking, except you're doing it with metals. A slight change in ingredient amount could turn a cake into a cookie, or cornbread into hush puppies if you happen to be from the South like me. Like the difference between a variety of gravies and sauces, for example, despite them all starting from a roux.
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| Yellow Gold Set Heart Shaped Gems by BVLA |
Most of the metals we use for initial jewelry are in fact alloys. Just like the Gold pendants and rings you've encountered throughout life. Wedding bands, engagement rings, class rings, etc. Alloys give Gold certain desirable traits like coloring, strength, workable melting points, and the like. So when we are purchasing Gold jewelry it is important to pay attention to the purity of the alloy as this will let us know if there is enough Gold present to meet our needs. For body jewelry we stay in the 14 karat to 18 karat range. Too much gold and the jewelry becomes soft and easily scratched and marked up. Too little gold and we are more at risk of potential reactions to the other metals in the alloy.
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| Black Rhodium Plated White Gold Crown Set White Opal by BVLA |
A 14 karat Gold piece of jewelry is 58.33% - 62.50% Gold by mass (however not by volume, depending on metals in the alloy, the volume of gold might be even lower if it is more dense than other metals used). Similarly, an 18 karat Gold piece of jewelry is 75.00% - 79.16% Gold by mass. Which means the rest of the composition in each case has to be made of "other metals". Logic would dictate that 18 karat Gold is more expensive than 14 karat, as it has a higher percentage of the precious metal. However we don't often realize that even 75% Gold leaves quite a lot of room for other metals that could be impurities or cause reactions. 25% by mass in this stated scenario, that's an entire 1/4 of the finished piece. In many cases the Gold is alloyed with Copper and Silver in various amounts to make it malleable or to change the coloring. White gold is very commonly alloyed with nickel, and since we already talked about how sensitive the human body can be to Nickel, it is only common sense to avoid this jewelry. Instead look for white gold that is specifically alloyed with Palladium. It may cost a little bit more, but it reduces the risk of unwanted reactions to the jewelry. If a piece of White Gold jewelry does not state that it is Palladium based, do not assume it to be so unless you have a guarantee from the manufacturer. This is but one of the many reasons we order jewelry from the best manufacturers on the planet. Lifetime guarantees regarding their craftsmanship, and no question about the content of their alloys.
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| Rose Gold "Lightspeed" by BVLA |
Keep in mind that Gold alloys are a very proprietary mixture and many manufacturers do not divulge the exact ingredients or amounts of their alloys. This can make purchasing gold body jewelry a much more risky purchase unless the consumer is familiar with quality brands, or retailers refuse to carry lower quality manufacturers. At Anomaly we order most of our Gold or Platinum jewelry from Body Vision Los Angeles, NeoMetal, Anatometal, Scylla, or we make it in house. There are few exceptions to this rule because we have no interest in putting our clients at risk with Gold jewelry we can not vouch for. NeoMetal does make some White Gold pieces that are alloyed with Nickel instead of Palladium, but their catalog easily points them out so that we can steer clear of them in unhealed piercings. Anatometal only makes jewelry in 18 karat because they feel 14 karat leaves too much room for added "other" metals and potential impurities, like us they only want to offer the best of the best. As stated previously 14 karat and 18 karat both should be fine for initial piercings provided they come from a reputable company with a understanding of body piercings. Most of the companies mentioned have former body piercers on their staff so that the intended use of the jewelry is in line with the design and material criteria.
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| Rose Gold "Rose" Setting with Ocean Blue Diamonds and White Opal Center by BVLA |
Far too many times than I would like to admit have I seen clients attempt to save a few bucks by purchasing gold jewelry online or from a traditional jeweler. In the end of most of them were unable to wear the pieces purchased. In some instances the materials were not adequate for our needs. In most cases the design is simply unrealistic for a body piercing. Poor angles, rough finish, and even karat stamping on the wearing surface are all reasons to avoid buying jewelry from a website or from a traditional jeweler. A piercer is trained to help you get the safest piece that can meet your needs. Find a local piercer that you trust, who understands all of the issues we have addressed in this blog, and allow them to assist you in your purchases and orders. We love seeing the smile on your face when you are happy, it's part of our job to help get you to that point.
Now that you know some of the considerations for purchasing gold jewelry, you can go out into the world as an educated consumer and make your dreams come true without the fear of being taken advantage of. The season for giving gifts is upon us as I write this blog, and I can't help but smile to think of all the great Gold and fine gem stone jewelry that my clients have on order for the special people in their lives. There really is something wonderful about the way Gold accents our lives, our character, our piercings. And the best part of all is that over the long term, the value of the Gold tends to increase dramatically. That's not something that can be said about Steel or Titanium, not even the implant grade versions. Gold body jewelry is becoming such a sought after accessory, that we can even get you an appraisal for your insurance company if you would like to insure your jewelry like any other fine piece you own. I've known clients to save money for months, make payment arrangements, and even use some of their profits from selling their house to get the most fitting and beautiful Gold body jewelry they can design. I have never once heard a single person complain, instead they rejoice when that custom piece finally arrives. Which is perhaps one last benefit of Gold jewelry; the ability to customize, change or create something completely new exists with Gold jewelry. Most Titanium and Steel pieces have to be machined in bulk to be worth their cost, doing a custom one-off design is pretty cost prohibitive for such inexpensive materials. Gold can be worked by hand by fine craftsmen on a piece by piece basis, and typically just increases in value as the years roll by. So it doesn't matter if you want it to have a yellow tone, a rose tone or a silvery one. There is a Gold out there with your name on it, and maybe even some custom stone settings as well.
I hope this post has been informative and fun, if you have any questions feel free to email me at anomalyart@gmail.com.
-Brett Perkins
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